February 27th, 2013
Have you looked at the weather for Saturday? It’s cold with a side of brrrrrrr. All jokes aside, with lows in the 30s and highs at around 50 it will be too cold to plant this Saturday. So we will be postponing the planting day until Saturday, the 16th of March at 9am sharp! Remember to tell those you know with a brown thumb with vegetables to come see the experts. That’s right. Experts.
Correction! Will not be next Saturday due to the LSU Garden Show. Will be in two weeks on the 16th. Sorry for any confusion!
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November 12th, 2012
Q: Should I prune the thorny branches off my kumquat and satsuma trees?
A: The simple answer: Yes.
The citrus trees we usually get in the south are ones that have been grafted onto another citrus tree’s root stock. As time goes on, the root stock may sprout. These sprouts turn into thorny branches that make the most sour fruit you have ever tasted. It is always best to remove these branches because as time goes on the root stock will continue to supply that branch with more nutrients than the rest of the tree. The grafted section may not fruit or may even die because of this. Make sure when removing these branches that it is, in fact, a branch from the root stock. Check for a joint area about 6-8 inches from the soil. Anything below that should be removed.
Posted in Ask Naylor's, Fruits, Gardening | Comments Off
October 31st, 2012
Q: I went into my back yard yesterday evening and noticed my grass was turning brown and there were a lot of moths in the grass as well. Any idea what this could be?
-Dale
A: Because of our dry conditions as of late, we are seeing a large number of army web worms or sod web worms. Moths are usually an early indication of such an infestation. And the damage in the picture you sent are textbook symptoms for army worms. We usually recommend a bifenthrin product be it Ortho Max or Talstar. Both are granular and are easily applied.
Posted in Ask Naylor's, Lawn, Products | Comments Off
June 16th, 2012
Be on the look out for this new pest affecting knockout roses. Damage resembles herbicide burn with stunted growth. Controls include Spinosid (organic), Acephate, and Acetamiprid. Check out this article for Chilean Thrips from LSU for more information: HERE
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April 21st, 2012
Q: What causes the lower leaves of my tomato plants to roll up?
A: Leaf roll (curling of the leaflets) is a physiological condition that occurs most commonly when plants are trained and pruned. It does not affect fruiting or quality, and it is not a disease. Leaf roll is a common genetic tract in some varieties such as “
Mountain Delight” and “Mountain Spring.”
Posted in Ask Naylor's, Gardening, Vegetables | Comments Off
April 1st, 2012
March has come and gone, but spring is still here. Our vegetable plants in our raised beds have gotten huge and are showing great progress.
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Red Lasoda Potatoes
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Hot and Sweet Peppers
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Tomatoes
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Bush Beans
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Do you have any questions about your garden? We would be happy to help! Send us an email (naylorsbr@gmail.com) or give us a call at (225)272-6412. Wanna come see the garden? Feel free to come by and take a look around.
Posted in Ask Naylor's, Gardening, Newsletters, Vegetables | Comments Off
February 4th, 2012
Q: Is it time to apply weed and feed to my lawn?
A: If weed control is your primary concern then yes. The only issue is fertilizing your lawn too early, apply during March for best overall results. As an alternative, applying a herbicide, we recommend Atrizine, is a great way to control sprouting weeds without fertilizing too early.
Posted in Ask Naylor's, Lawn, Products | Comments Off
September 26th, 2011
Q: When is the best time to plant cilantro. I haven’t been very successful. I planted it this past summer – it turned yellow and quickly went to seeding.
Thanks
A:Cilantro is best planted in the fall as it doesn’t like our summer heat. Plant it in a well drained bed with full sun. Around May June prune heavily and freeze for use in summer salsas. Plants and Seed are available now.
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September 16th, 2011
Q: I have been applying an oil spray for tea scale but the tea scale are still infesting my camelias. I applied 10 days apart when the temps were cooler in the morning. They are very young shrubs and no taller than 18″ or so. Just planted last year.
Is there a granule for these pests that I can water in that will help in addition to the oil spray? If so, what time of year is best? Wait until spring to try again with the oil?
A: There is a granular Merit product by GreenLight called ”Safari.” We recommend a liquid form of Merit (Tree and Shrub Systemic Drench). Merit products work best as prevention, not curing. This product can be applied now, but is best applied in spring before new growth. Continue the use of the oil spray and remember you are only killing insects that come in direct contact with the product. Thorough coverage with an oil spray is essential, this means not only the top of the leaves but the bottom as well.
Posted in Ask Naylor's, Flowers, Gardening, Products | Comments Off
June 27th, 2011
Q: Hi,
I just need to know how do i keep my hydrangeas pink in color? They were blue in color now they are all green!!!!!???????? Any more suggestions??
Thanks again,
G
A: The green color you’re experiencing quite often indicates a transition in pH. Hydrangeas need a higher pH in order to produce a pink flower. Adding lime to the soil will bring your pH up. You will see the results during next year’s bloom.
Posted in Ask Naylor's, Flowers, Gardening, Products | Comments Off
